St Naum monastery, Ohrid

 

A trip to Macedonia is not complete without heading to Ohrid Lake. Straddling Albania, the lake is huge enough to seem like a sea. It’s one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The main town is bustling. Much better to head around it to places like the small, beautiful town of Radozhda, on the western shore (about 30km from Ohrid Town) and very close to Albania. Or drive in the opposite direction to Saint Naum. And then you’re really touching the border with Albania.

You’ll navigate the usual small, winding roads, for long stretches run parallel to the lake itself, see amazing scenery and then suddenly, you’re at St Naum.

Don’t be fooled by first impressions. From the outside, it looks like you’re about to head into a holiday camp. And it is very touristy.

Need the toilet? Pay. (Or head into the lake). Want to buy a plastic Spiderman laying prone on the ground firing a gun? (Yep, really.) The front end is full of little shops selling mainly typical tourist stuff or worse. 

We did find one place selling amazing bottles from wood and copper, made by the owner. His first words? “Welcome to the only place not selling stuff made in China.” We did dig into our pockets, and could have spent a lot more.

You can lay by the lake, eat at one of its restaurants, but if that’s your main aim, there are more and better places to do so on the drive to St Naum. The real reason for heading to St Naum is the monastery. The medieval Orthodox monastery is named after the saint who founded it in 905. 

Old, intricate murals on the walls and ceilings, peacocks wandering around and great views over the lake. As part of a trip to Ohrid, St Naum monastery is a must.

View over Lake Ohrid from St Naum

Dome inside St Naum monastery

Inside St Naum monastery

Inside St Naum monastery

Inside St Naum monastery


St Naum is buried in the monastery. Local legend says if you put ear to the coffin, you can hear his heart beat 

Peacocks freely roam the monastery ground and surrounding gardens

From the monastery itself, walk down to the lake's clean waters

Retail area near the entrance of the St Naum grounds

Getting there

St Naum is on the western shore of Ohrid. Google Maps is your friend, but the final few kilometres are signposted. The roads will take you through some small, pretty towns, along the shoreline of the lake, with plenty of stopping points for photos. Look out for the area full of tall reeds as a good place to stop. The final leg of the drive heads through surrounding hills and takes you past houses with amazing vantage points over Lake Ohrid. Parking at St Naum is an all-day paid ticket.


All photos: St Naum monastery, Ohrid in Macedonia; 2021


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