Battle of Kumanovo: Zebrnjak monument and Ossuary

A monument worth visiting is Zebrnjak, commemorating the Battle of Kumanovo, which took place in 1912.

Fought by Serb soldiers, the battle is considered a turning point in efforts to push the Ottoman Empire out of the Balkans.

The monument was paid for by Serbs in honour of their fallen compatriots and built in 1937. The tower’s history was short – it was blown up by the Axis Bulgarian army in May 1942 during World War 2. Originally 48m high, it is now 18.5m. 

But don't be fooled. It's much bigger inside than it looks from the outside. Free to visit, it is worth an hour of your time.

Inside is a mini warren of small rooms that tell the story of the Battle of Kumanovo, with photos of key figures in the battle, a model of how the tower originally looked and downstairs, an Ossuary.

The various rooms leading off the central area

Stairs leading up to the model of the tower. The room includes images of it being built and after it was blow up by the Bulgarian army

One of the rooms in the monument

The ossuary is at the bottom of the tower 

The bones of Serb soldiers killed during the Battle of Kumanovo, which took place in October 1912. It does not seem to include any complete skulls

Model of the original tower, before it was destroyed

Its history is well explained, including in English, and gives you a real sense of what these soldiers endured.

Climb up what remains of the tower, and you are treated to magnificent views of the surrounding area.

View of Kumanovo from the top of Zebrnjak

Panorama taken from the top of Zebrnjak

The path up the tower winds around its outside. And it can get pretty windy.

Oddly, none of the Macedonians we chatted to in the following weeks of our visit had ever been to it. Some had never heard of it, others dismissed it as a Serb monument, which is a real shame given its history.

Getting there

It’s about a 45-minute drive from the centre of Skopje, located in the Municipality of Staro Nagorichane, and easy to find on Google Maps. The small road leading to the site deteriorates over the final few kilometres though, making it slow going as you weave between potholes.

You can park on the roadside about 600m from the monument, then walk uphill to it. If you have a 4x4, you can drive that final 600m and park in front of the gates. But it’s worth the walk.

You can read more on the Battle of Kumanovo here.